The Genesis of Anna Balkan Jewelry: A Journey of Color, Wire, and Instinct

I never planned to become a jewelry designer. In fact, I started my path as an engineering student in Ukraine, back when it was still part of the USSR. Life under late communism had a unique contrast—our art was full of bright, expressive color, while our clothing and surroundings were mostly drab and gray. That contrast left a lasting impression on me: I craved color, beauty, and expression.

Growing up, we often had to make things by hand. Tools were limited, so problem-solving and resourcefulness were just part of everyday life. That hands-on mentality stayed with me. Years later, after coming to America and during my first pregnancy, a powerful creative urge resurfaced. I had never made jewelry before, but I instinctively began experimenting with wire. My engineering background gave me just enough foundation to begin twisting wire into spirals, connecting pieces in my own sculptural way.

My first designs used twisted wire vines—elegant, slightly chaotic, and expressive. I didn’t look up how to make jewelry. I didn’t follow tutorials. I let my hands and my sense of color guide me. That twisting technique quickly became a signature of my style and still shows up today in my one-of-a-kind and limited-edition collections.

Then came a pivotal shift: I decided to apply my childhood crochet skills to metal. Using fine-gauge wire, I crocheted earrings, pendants, rings, and even intricate cuffs. These designs felt fresh, airy, and richly textural—an entirely different way of sculpting.

To my complete surprise, the very first earrings I made in this style were picked up by InStyle magazine. Soon after, they were featured on TV shows and started selling like wildfire. For almost a year, I was making more than 60 pairs of those earrings with no advertising at all. That early recognition gave me confidence—and even 20 years later, people still tell me how much they love and wear those pieces. I occasionally bring them back for collectors’ events in small, limited-edition releases.

As I continued to grow, I wanted more structure—something to build on. So I began using metal frames and hoops as a base and wrapped vibrant gems around them. It was another way to sculpt, only this time with gemstones as my palette. These frame-based wrapped designs allowed me to layer color, play with movement, and bring dimension into every piece. Many of my boldest, most colorful designs were born from this exploration.

Eventually, I returned to precision—reminiscent of my early engineering days—but with a more refined touch. I started wrapping wire tightly around chains and gems, creating coils that added both structure and beauty. These coiled designs brought a new elegance to my work, and many of my most classic styles still use this technique today.

My jewelry has always been recognized for its originality, and I believe that’s because it’s never been formulaic. Every piece comes from instinct—freestyle creation led by color, texture, and movement. That’s the essence of Anna Balkan Jewelry. It’s not just something I make—it’s something I live.